spencer skipper / 2014 pipe pro

Une vidéo familiale (postée par Trish Waters et éditée par A Botha :)) où l'on peut voir un résumé des  meilleures vagues de la légende Spencer Skipper lors du pipe pro la semaine dernière, vraiment fan :)

Adam Dumas // the wedge

Avant dernier article sur quelques riders de la scène DK aux usa;  A 30 ans, Adam Dumas  est un chargeur. Il apprécie depuis toujours les vagues puissantes avec des lanceurs si possible; originaire de huntington il a appris à surfer en regardant les locaux emblématiques du Wedge comme Alaya ou Crawford. Aujourd'hui il ride pour toobs et gagne à être un peu plus connu; il a chopé une belle parution dans le mag surge il y a quelques temps:

When and how did you come to bodyboard?

Ok, well it is a long story so I will try to make it short. I started off surfing when I was 7 or 8 years old on a surfboard. But I would always have a bodyboard at the beach when I was young more like a toy than a wave riding vehicle. I did not really get into bodyboarding seriously until I was introduced to the wedge at the age of 15. THIS was it. I was amazed at the size of the barrels at wedge and watching guys like jj ayala or robbie crawford pull into these waves drop knee was something I wanted to do. It was pure style and i WANTED IN. So I picked up a new Bz bodyboard and started bodyboarding pretty consistently. Took a long time to get my dk where it is now with lots of bumps in the road.

Where do you live in cali?

I live in the great air polluted san fernando valley. I grew up near the wedge but now I live an hour north closer to some other well known waves such as pt. mugu,  It is kind of shitty being an hours drive from most beaches unless I leave very early because of la traffic. It works out good cause now i only try to surf when its good. the rest of the time I try to stay home with my wife and daughter. new daughter, watch out in a few years for her drop knee debut I already am working on the stance for good style . haha

Which type of spots do you surfe most of the time?

I like the heavier spots, places with barrels, sand banks, and of course anywhere theres side waves. i mean come on I grew up riding side waves in my sleep practically.

Can you describe the dk scene today in cali?                                                                                     

The dk scene in california is strong but could be better. Dk wars is great and that has definitely raised the bar. Really awesome work chris taloa did to make dk wars available. Everyone should go and thank him for starting that. i have seen so many of those dk wars pics on facebook and let me just say it is awesome to see the happy faces and the top level riding whether it be video or pics its always raising the bar. I participated in a few early on but now I have a baby and time does not allow for a lot of surf. 

Here in france many bodyboarders has always  seen california  as certainly one of the best dk riders nation; do you think this is due to cali  waves which are sometimes really well configured for drop knee?

We have a lot of great waves here for drop knee. I hate nothing more than to watch a guy do spins on a two foot wave but could sit there and watch someone with stylish drop knee  pump down the line and finish it off with a a stylish lip bash at the end. We have had some of the best dk riders in the past and still do. Just need someone to start documenting it cause I have seen some amazing dk the past few years and participated in some all time sessions but never get video always pictures. 

Are you are part of dk wars?

I am not a part of DKwars but I fully support the movement.

Wich  template and core do you like  to surf? do you use different boards depending surfing conditions?

I ride for toobs bodyboards and they have been very good to me as far as making me what I like. My boards are Dk influenced but not rounded in the nose. For years I rode 43 “ boards. the past few years I have changed to 42.25 it made a difference in my riding and made the tight drops easier. I have also been adding some nose rocker to my boards as well again making the tighter drops and fitting in the pockets of round bowls better.                                                                        

For everyday surf with average to no shape standard california waves I use a dk inspired board with a flipped nose no channels and dual stringers. For moderately heavy to real heavy I like a board the same as above but add some channels and take out a stringer. I like my boards to be able to warp and bend a bit increasing my odds at making an exit out of a barrel. 

                                                                                                                                  

Travels to come?

Maybe some hawaii and mexico next year but with a new daughter at home now I am not rushing anywhere soon.

Thanks adam ;)

Wanted to say thank you to my sponsor toobs bodyboards, my family, my wife and daughter, and all the wave riders who share the same love I do for the ocean. you make the world a better place.