27/12/2013

Trevor Solberg // San Marcos / california

Après Bob Kithcart c'est au tour d'un autre californien de 24 ans, Trevor Solberg, de répondre aux mêmes questions.  Discret et passionné depuis quelques années par le DK grâce encore une fois à  Paul Roach entre autres,  il travaille comme manutentionnaire dans une entreprise de produits chimique et réside vers les terres entre San Diego et Oceanside.  Dans ses réponses, le ressenti d'une glisse qui s'estompe un peu; réservée à un noyau de puristes. Au milieu de l'itw il évoque son expérience intéressante avec le "Vektor fin System", qu'il perçoit comme le futur du Drop Knee:


When and how did you come to bodyboard?
From the age of so to sixteen, I grew up in Wisconsin, a place that has probably never heard of bodyboarding. Every summer, I would fly out to California to visit my dad. I would spend all of my time at the beach because we didn't have anything really like that where I was from. I couldn't stay out I the ocean. During those summers, I tried my hand at surfing because that's what everyone in California seemed to do. I never really cared for it but still had fun. In 2006, I decided to move out to California. I immediately started bodyboarding, and instantly got wrapped up in the bodyboard world. About a year later, I started to drop knee and now am hooked. 

Where do you live in cali?
I currently live in San Marcos, California

Which type of spots do you surfe most of the time?
find myself at beach breaks or small reefs. Most breaks near me are beach breaks, which is why I surf them mostly. I like beach breaks because they have a lot of power which I feel is one of the key components to drop knee. The reefs around here can also be very good. They usually have much better shape than our beach breaks but don't always have the same power.  

Can you describe the dk scene today in cali?
The drop knee scene in California has definitely changed. When I first got into drop knee, California had Roach and the best in the west contest and you would run into other dk guys all over. Today it seems like drop knee has started falling off the map in California. I hardly see other drop knee guys in the water. The contests have slowed down. Everything drop knee seems to be on the back burner of the bodyboarding world. It nice seeing the little glimmers of hope for drop knee like dropknee magazine and dk wars.

Here in france many bodyboarders has always  seen california  as certainly one of the best dk riders nation; do you think this is due to cali  waves which are sometimes really well configured for drop knee?
The waves her can definitely draw people. I met two really good friend from Italy here in California because the waves drew them here. The waves in California can definitely get really good, however, we get our flat spells. The past few years have certainly seen their share I flat spells. Weeks on end with nothing over knee high doesn't provide much opportunity. At the same time, we can have runs for weeks where it's perfect. Mix in the variety of waves California has to offer from mutants like the wedge to perfect beach breaks and fun reefs to reeling point breaks. California has a lot to offer travelers if they are lucky enough to come during a swell. Because of the variety, it has a lot to offer dropknee. You can have powerful, steep, punchy shore break or a long reeling waves that allows you to throw a dozen snaps. It really depends on the swell and the conditions. Because it's always changing, it forces you to adapt to the waves which is why I think a lot of the guys around here could do really well on the world tour. California has the potential to produce world class riders and because of that, a lot of people are drawn to the waves around here.

Are you are part of dk wars?
I have had the pleasure of competing in DK wars. I competed in the second DK wars at salt creek, traveled to Hawaii for the third at off the wall, and competed in Buds DK wars salt creek. I think what Taloa started for drop knee is amazing. It's great seeing a bunch of guys out in the water all DK. It's always a great vibe with everyone cheering for each other and everyone pushing themselves and the sport. It's definitely helping to breathe life back into drop knee. Hopefully with the continued success of DK wars more events an support will flow into the dropknee community and allow guys to go further with what they love to do and prevent dropknee from becoming something of the past.

Wich  template and core do you like  to surf? do you use different boards depending surfing conditions?
I have ridden a lot of boards in the few years I have been dropkneeing. I've ridden the Nomad Lackey, Turbo Rose, Elemenohpee Bud, Cartel Roach, Cartel Machete, and others. There were certain aspects from each board that I liked and didn't like. From all I the experimenting with the different boards, I mixed the aspects that I liked and created my own shape. I currently ride a custom mixture of the Cartel Machete, Turbo Rose and Nomad Lackey with a Polypro core. I recently was picked up by Vektor and have began riding my boards with the Vektor fin system. The system is next level. That is undoubtably the future of drop knee. I was hesitant about trying the fins at first, but the control and speed provided by having the fin system is mind blowing. If stuck more, gnarlier floaters and air in the past few months than I have the entire time I've know how to dropknee. I've been able to confidently charge steeper waves because I know the fins will keep me securely in place. Vektor is definitely something everyone serious about taking their riding to the next level should consider from here on out. I do have different boards for different waves. I have junk board for those gnarly shorebreak days when I know something will probably break. I have a 44" triad bud model for the smaller days when I need more foam. I have a customer made for bigger days but also works for faster waves and lastly I have a board for more normal days.

Travels to come?
I have a lot of travel plans. I plan on doing a lot of traveling to central and Northern California this winter to paddle out with friends in the big winter swells they get up there. I'm planning a tip to Hawaii next February for a few weeks and also a trip to Mexico next summer. I'm working on planning a few trips in the years to come. I shooting for the pacific islands like Fiji or Bali and also to Australia. 

Thanks Trevor!







26/12/2013

Tanner McDaniel 6.0 // hawaii

Le crew hawaien Boogie Nation a mis en ligne la semaine dernière le 6ème podcast du jeune prodige Tanner Mac Daniel. Sous l'aile de Mike Stewart depuis 2011,  l'hawaien de 14 ans  s'était fait largement remarquer lors des trials du pipe pro en mars 2012; il a été élu "grom of the year 2013" par Riptide le mois dernier et il ne démérite pas ce titre.
Un rider skinny au style très aérien et super explosif,  la technicité de son invert to reverse à 0'23 vaut le coup d'oeil; le futur du bodyboard :)

19/11/2013

Tyge Landa / Beneath / BP

Tyge Landa est un réalisateur de 27 ans qui vit dans le New South Wales en Australie; Son dernier projet "Beneath" lui a pris 6 mois et est disponible pour 5$ sur le site beneathfilm.com;
Soutenu par agent18,  il a filmé presque exclusivement des sessions dans le NSW et ses montages sont très très bons.  Son interview ici: leboogie.com/2013/behind-inside-beneath/
Le profile de Ben Player sur un de ses home spots; je ne m'en lasse pas en ce moment:

07/10/2013

PITSTOPS // M NOVY

En attendant de nouveaux articles (oui enfin) sur la scène dk en californie (oui), j'édite un post pour la mise en ligne du troisième épisode de la série PITSTOPS présentée par leBoogie Magazine; après Gornall et Pierre Louis, c'est au tour de Michael Novy de rider cette fois ci tahiti et un beach break en Nouvelle Zélande. Gros style, puissance; Novy s'est malheureusement retiré du tour l'an passé  car il ne pouvait plus payer les frais financiers pour le suivre dignement,  comme kingy et d'autres d'ailleurs. En tout cas il défonce, la bande son aussi (TV Colours – The Neighbourhood)


                                                        source: http://leboogie.com/2013/pitstops-michael-novy/

20/09/2013

Interview podcast 5 WA // S.Werkmeister

Un petit post pour parler de Sam Werkmeister, un jeune vidéaste anglais  de 24 ans passionné des sports d'eau depuis son plus jeune âge qui a pas mal voyagé   et rencontré des bodyboarders  dès la fin de ses études en 2011; il s'est arrêté à Sumatra, New South Wales, WA,  Hawaii.. ; il a aussi fait des images pendant 3 mois pour les PWA windsurfing world tour dans les Caraïbes; Si vous voulez suivre son actu il a un tumblr intéressant ici: http://samwerkmeister.tumblr.com 
Personnellement il me fait penser vaguement à Mickey Smith, pas vous? 

Cette semaine il a mis en ligne son dernier montage retraçant une session à The Box l'année dernière avec du très haut niveau dans l'eau; plc, hubb, benny, winny, finlay et quelques locaux (Brad Huges, Chad Jackson, Michael Honeybone) et surtout Sean Virtue, ça fait plaisir de revoir Sean Virtue!
Bref ça se passe donc à Western Australia, et c'est une des meilleures vidéos publiées depuis la rentrée en attendant la prochaine qui concernera son passage (la dernière étape de son tour du monde) aux îles sandwich :)





28/08/2013

JACOB REEVE :: CA

Jacob Reeve. Ce nom devrait être connu de tous les  passionnés qui se respectent,  pour faire simple c'est une grande légende du bodyboard californien; dans le milieu des années 90 il était  l'un des riders les plus médiatisés et connus dans le monde notamment grâce à l'émergence des vidéos "made in USA" de cette époque;   Jacob y avait régulièrement des profiles montrant un niveau impressionnant tellement  il était précis et maîtrisait avec grande facilité les flips et autres reverses airs sur toutes ses vagues. 
Aujourd'hui à 38 ans il surfe encore beaucoup et aussi bien;  il vit toujours à Oxnard à un peu plus d' une centaine de kilomètres au nord de Newport et ses homespots sont quelques wedges jusqu'à Ventura.
Étant gosse j'ai bien du regarder une centaine de fois sa section sur le film de Jason Wolcott "monkey's" ou celle de Dyslexic et ce qui est étonnant presque 15 années après c'est cette intemporalité dans son style et ses moves;  cette semaine il a répondu à 10 questions, et j'en suis plutôt ravi :)



Hi Jacob,  where are you now, still living in Oxnard? 
Good surf at home these days?
Hi Frederic, Yes, I am still living in Oxnard. The house we own is within 15 minutes of 4 of my favorite spots in Cali. Its been a decent couple years of waves. Just this week, my family and I decided to rent out our house and camp at spots along the coast of Cali for the next year. 


If i remember good in 2007 you created bbx (bodyboard expedition) project; is it still relevant? Can you talk us about it?
The BB Expedition was an idea James Prola and I had to create a more entertaining way for extreme sports athletes to compete and showcase their abilities. Instead of judges, you would have the public decide who is best. We were in the process of blowing it up, getting investors and all and spreading it to other sports when one of our investors named Damon stole our business plan and started it with Cameron Stele with the stand ups - they called it “Innersection.tv.” We had worked really hard on it and wanted to do it full time, so when that happened and our investors were gone and our resources were depleted, it brought us to a crossroads. Shortly after that time, James got offered a high paying job making 3D movies in SoCal and had to take it. 

We have talked about doing more of them, but both of us are so busy now with other things we haven’t had much time to invest in the BBX. Im glad the idea is working for the stand-ups, -I would do it way better than innersection does it (in my opinion), but the idea is there. I don’t hold any debt towards those guys but I would love to see it start up again in the bodyboarding world. If I had the right team, we could make it happen. I just don’t have a tun of time to put into it. 



Religion seems to be a important part of your life; i have read you were professor and that you wrote books; all of it concerns  Christian religion? do you still try to surf when you can?
I actually don't like religion at all. Jesus didn't come to start a new religion, he came to show us who God truly was and He came to reveal who we truly are. He didn't come as much to be an example to us but of us. He called himself the son of man more than he called himself the son of God. 

I believe most religion is actually anti-christ. It offers a false perception of God -that is unless it is caring for the poor and afflicted. I believe Jesus is the truest representation the world has ever had of who our Father and Creator really is. 

Many of my teachings are online at www.intheschoolofjesus.org if people want to know more of what I believe and what the bible teaches. 

As far as surf, the good thing is that I am my own boss so even though I have a tun of responsibility, I can surf just about whenever I want. My kids are home-schooled and they love bodyboarding and surfing so we go all the time.  



Between the mid-90s and early 2000s', californian pro bodyboarders like you were one of the most exposed in the world scene; thanks in part to filmmakers like jason wolcott,  John McKinney, brian stoker or Sean Manning (Riders Of Tubes) for the best known;  
Can you describe the bodyboarding scene today in california? are there a new generation with potential? 
The Bodyboard scene has died out a lot in central Cali. Especially up in this region where I am from. There are a few 20 somethings that rip in my area and they might start putting some documentation out there, but I only know of about 4 teenagers that bodyboard in my area. 

Beyond my region, I am probably not the best person to ask. I have been a bit isolated in the last few years from the larger Cali scene. I have mostly been surfing by myself at my spots or with my kids. I know there are lots of guys in So Cal, but the sports epicenter is obviously far from Cali now. I believe within the next few years I will get back in the mix of things because my kids are starting to want to compete. 

I believe that Cali does still have the potential to produce some top level talent, we just need to have the guys to travel, and document. Most of our best waves are in cold, isolated, shark infested or localized waters so its hard to find guys that will go frequently. 


What are your favorite spots in cali?
I dont know if I can say. Two of the best wedge/beachbreak waves in Cali are within 10 minutes from my house in Oxnard. There is also Rincon which I go to often when its big - Still love that wave. I haven’t seen another bodyboarder out there in the last few years. 

A couple hours north there are some amazing reef breaks and beach breaks that can get really heavy too. No name spots mostly.  


Can you talk us about your deal with toobs, what type of board do you like to surfe? 
Toobs boards are by far the best boards I have ever had the privilege to ride. 
I have used the same shape for about 4 years now. Its a semi-custom board, 
I use the "10" curve

length: 39.5
Nose: 11.5
nose to width:17
width: 20.5
tail: 17.5
normal thickness - not shaved down
bat tail - sharp 
faint narrow channels
x mesh 
single stringer


Do you change your board template or  core depending surfing conditions (especially in cold water)?
Not really, I just might take one that is older and more broken in if its colder. 


The biggest injury you've had while surfing?
I have had three major ones that are all tied: 

1. Broke my top rib in my upper back/neck and slipped two disks doing an invert on “big wednesday” in 1999 in Cali at Rincon. Took me two months before I could get in the water again, six months to surf at full capacity again. My rib was broken in such a way that it was not able to be reset. It is still broken to this day. 

2. I also broke my nose (hit it on my leash plug landing an air) in 2001 at Emma Wood. I wont put leash plug in the middle of my board again. 

3. Broke my thumb and dislocated a bunch of bones in my left hand from hitting the reef at pipe in 2003. - When I came up you could see all my bones in my fingers because the reef ripped the flesh away - now my fingers freeze in one position every morning when I wake up and I need to do therapy to get them functioning.  


Best moment in your bodyboarding career?
Traveling to new amazing spots and seeing the world. Being one of the first foreigner guys to surf Fronton in Canary Islands and El Gringo in Chile was pretty amazing. I think I was on the first two trips where those two spots were first documented and revealed to the larger BB community. Living in Hawaii at Wiamea Bay was also amazing. I also won a smaller contest at Pipe one year against a bunch of the guys who would later become world champions. That was pretty special. 


Many thanks Jacob, i let you saying what you want now 
Mahalo! Shalom! If theres a videographer out there who wants to devote some time to help me put on some more expeditions, get a hold of me. Thx!














09/08/2013

Llowen Liberato // Super Bowl Monday

Voici le dernier montage mis en ligne par l'hawaïen Llowen Liberato;   d'après ce que j'ai lu cette semaine via Le Boogie cette vidéo devait faire partie du dvd Flick qui ne sortira malheureusement pas à cause entre autres de la mise en ligne permanente de nouvelles vidéos sur le web (freinant les achats de DVD depuis plus de 6 ans maintenant) et aussi faute de budget je pense.
Il devrait poster d'autres clips dans les semaines à venir. En tout cas c'est plutôt cool de voir surfer ces gars;
Riders: HUBB bros / Jacob Pembrook / David Phillips / Kainoa Lum / Adam Bice / Tim Hamilton / Cass Sonoda

La vidéo qui suit sur J hubbard a été postée Llowen la semaine dernière; images depuis 2006/2007, grosse qualité avec un morceau du groupe légendaire Strung Out (Somnonbulance / Suburban Teenage Wasteland Blues)




01/08/2013

summer boards

Cette première partie d'été 2013 ne semble de pas déroger à la règle de la sempiternelle saison estivale:  petites houles,   périodes faibles, swells aux durées limitées à quelques heures.

La plupart du temps l'outil le plus efficace des mini vagues reste le surfboard type fish, hybride  ou longboard, démarrer sur les ondulations avec ce type d'engin est vraiment facile et surtout cela offre un nouvel angle de vue quant à la lecture de vague. 
Mais on peut aussi surfer les petites conditions en boogie; si tout du moins quelques sections un tant soit peu creuses se présentent;

Je vais faire simple, l'idée pour avoir de la relance et de la projection dans les petites vagues d'été est de rider une board (un peu) plus rigide,  plus grande et/ou plus large que sa board habituelle.  
Mon expérience professionnelle en shop  m'a appris que cette notion (surtout de largeur) est très répandue bien évidement chez les shortboarders, mais beaucoup moins chez les bodyboarders; 
Je pense qu'il y a deux raisons à cela, tout d'abord le budget car tout le monde ne peut pas se payer deux bodyboards à l'année ( beaucoup d'ados rident en beug et  n'ont pas forcément 200 euros à lâcher comme ça), et ensuite l'idée commune que le bodyboard ne se surfe que dans des vagues consistantes. 

Donc,  lorsqu'on augmente le volume et la rigidité d'un bodyboard on gagne en flottabilité, ce qui accroît la vitesse dans les petites vagues.

La semaine dernière mon pote Théo a écrit un article très intéressant en anglais concernant  cette notion de volume sur Spongercity:   

En ce qui me concerne je déconseille les core en PE pendant cette saison, même si la board est neuve, tout simplement parce que ce noyau est trop souple malgré le mesh ou les stringers et que les boards en PE marquent trop vite dès que la température de l'eau et/ou de l'air est élevée. 
Optez plutôt pour des core type hd30 (airlight core, airflex core),  pp basse densité, 3d core. Ensuite il y a l'épaisseur de la planche, faites attention à cela, les boards fines sont très faciles à prendre en main et très intéressantes dans les "vraies vagues" mais peuvent donner moins de projection quand c'est plus mou;  l'idée du channel sur le deck au niveau des rails étant une bonne alternative pour garder du ressort dans les petites vagues.


Pour la taille, augmenter entre un demi pouce et un pouce est suffisant (par rapport à sa board habituelle), et dans ce cas le wide point (point le plus large) sera aussi augmenté. ;

Cependant, après avoir passé plusieurs années à tester des customs, j'en suis venu à la conclusion qu'augmenter juste la largeur de sa planche en gardant la même taille  est probablement la meilleure solution en terme de maniabilité pour surfer convenablement les petits swells d'été.
Pour le tail, je pense qu'il ne faut pas changer la forme que l'on a l'habitude de surfer; et pour les rails, tout dépend du shape; personnellement je ne surfe que des rails 50/50 dans les petites vagues car c est très réactif dans la glisse et les trajectoires.


L'intérêt sera donc de rider une board nerveuse l'été avec un volume suffisant pour aller vite et  remettre facilement ses tricks sans forcer.
Attention tout de même car si on augmente trop le volume, le template de la planche aura tendance à trop favoriser le surf à plat; 

Bref, cela démontre l'intérêt d'être conseillé, et de bien choisir le shop dans lequel on prend son matos. Je reviendrai sur les shapes et les cores dans un article à venir cet hiver.

Les deux premières photos montrent l'un des customs (à droite) que je surfe dans les vagues inconsistantes;     
Pour vous donner une idée,  la planche en question est   petite par rapport à ma taille mais  large; 
Sachant que je mesure 1m86 pour 72kg:  
41.60 pouces x 56cm(wp) x 44.10cm (n to wp) x 5,5cm (épaisseur) 
2 stringers / hd30 / deck Sealed air / slick Surlyn

Les photos qui suivent ainsi que la vidéo concernent une session classique d'été ce mois de juillet où l'importance du volume prenait tout sons sens :) (merci à Kevin Stefanutti et Sylvie Quéré pour leur contribution :)












29/07/2013

JSX / WATT

Bonne nouvelle pour le jeune Jean Sebastien Geffroy;  Il aura désormais un pro model commercialisé chez WATT bodyboard!
Félicitation à toi mon petit; tes progrès sont impressionnants depuis la première fois où nous avons surfé le fronton ensemble :)

Core Nrg // 40,5 ; 41 and 41,5
Available in Blue, White and Burgundy











23/07/2013

T-SHRTS SPIT

Cette semaine j'ai reçu .. des T-shirts! Deux modèles vraiment chouettes, un blanc et  un noir, ils ont été sérigraphiés en France, le coton est de très bonne  qualité, le même que les éditions du label  Phenüm.   
Pour les intéressés envoyez  un mail direct car il y a peu de pièces; 
Le prix de vente est de 25 euros frais de port compris; merci de votre soutien!



- t-shirt noir Phenüm / 100% coton / Edition limitée / Sérigraphié en France avec une encre rongeante
- t-shirt blanc Phenüm / 100% coton / Edition limitée / Sérigraphié en France avec une encre à l'eau






Photo © Julio Ificada



D R E B O T H A

'Je ne vais pas présenter Andre Botha, ni son parcours, ni lui; tout ce que j'ai envie de  dire c'est qu'il propose quelque chose de différent dans son surf et ça c'est une richesse notable;  j'ai lu tellement de conneries à son sujet depuis ces dernières années.. ce gars vit à sa façon sans  se soucier du regard que les gens pourraient avoir sur lui; et Il semble avoir la  chance d'être assez libre pour faire ce qu'il souhaite. Depuis plusieurs mois il poste régulièrement des montages sur ses sessions vers Durban; regardez sa dernière vidéo en compagnie de Joshua Garner à la fin de l'article (je n'ai pu m'empêcher de sourire à 3'06)


Where are you at this time? some good swells at home last days?
Im in DURBAN SOUTH AFRICA brother, Its been a good winter so far! Although I have been on it with a fresh obsession with getting the best waves I can and you know that you have to be in it to win it! Also I have am so fortunate to have a wife that is great at filming and that films me every time I ride. I am very happy to bring my riding to everyone through the internet viva vimeo. Finding inner peace through nature and wave riding.


You did surf good for the last iba gopro pipe challenge, how was it for you?
It was fun. I must best honest, the waves at Pipe where not as big and heavy as I would have loved, also I was pissed off at myself for not winning the event, so all in all, it was okay for me.


Will you do this year others iba events?
No I will not. Competition is not in my path right now. At this point in my life I do not want to be involved with any judgment what so ever, I believe only in gratitude at all that do what they love.  I want to focus on my wave riding and gettting vimeo clips out there. I think in about 5-10 years time I might be ready for competing again.


Wich regard do you have on the world tour now?
I have no regard about it. I watch it live..... and enjoy it, but deep down I do not see much point in sports .


Anyone  inspiring you today in bodyboarding?
Other than myself? I push myself enough, I dont need anyone else to do that. Its always been within me.


You ride empire bodyboards, can you describe your pro model in few words?
wich template and core do you like to surf at home?
Simple, no gimmicks! Thick and Heavy PE boards for big waves!
I use PP in Durban cause the water is warm. PE double stringer, double mesh in Cape Town where the water is cold.


About your art works, you make very interesting drawings, paintings, 
can you describe what you do?
Have you ever exhibit somewhere?
My art work is not so much about the actual result but much more about the actual act of doing the art work.
No, I have never had an exhibit! But I am ready for my first one!

Last injury while surfing?
Dislocated Thumb - 2009
I have sore muscles all the time after heavy landings.

The thing you hate the most
Well I hate many things that humans do, but destruction of nature and the earth in any way or form is by for the most cruel. I believe strongly that in 2013 and beyond that animals shouldn't be hunted and nature shouldn't be disturbed, even destroyed, to benefit the whims of mankind.

Next travel plan?
Outside of South Africa, Ill be going to the Canaries in October.


Thanks andre; i let you writing what you want
THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I LOVE YOU ALL BUT I LOVE THE EARTH EVEN MORE!
"That which is not good for the bee-hive cannot be good for the bees."
Marcus Aurelius
TO BE GREATFUL IS TO START LIVING!
Thank you - Andre Botha

http://www.sennosen.com/









11/07/2013

Jacob Romero Signs w/ No. 6 Bodyboards

Je me souviens avoir envoyé un mail à Romero après son heat face à Amaury lors du dernier Arica Challenge en lui disant qu' après l'event il allait certainement  retrouver un sponsor vu son engagement au chili. Bah ça a pas loupé, il est rentré chez N°6, marque californienne assez récente dont les boards sont faites dans la même usine que Found; bref il le mérite: 





10/07/2013

stckrs

En voilà une bonne nouvelle, le facteur a déposé un colis avec plein de stickers ce matin;
Pour ceux qui en veulent envoyez moi un mail sur fredquem@hotmail.fr