Maylla Venturin // brésil

Le Brésil à toujours été une très grande nation du bodyboard féminin. Ce mois ci je me suis intéressé à Maylla Venturin,  une compétitrice hors pair qui vit à environ 500 km au nord-est de Rio de Janeiro sur la côte; elle ride depuis 25 ans et a réalisé un nombre considérables de podium sur le WWT et sur le tour national brésilien  depuis ces 20 dernières années; Comme Neymara Carvalho  et G.Tamega,  elle a créé sa propre école de bodyboard en 2010;   J'ai toujours vu ses classements sur les étapes du tour pro sans en entendre véritablement parler alors il y a quelques mois j'ai pris contact avec  elle pour lui proposer une interview; voici ce qu'elle m'a répondu :

Hi Maylla, can you tell us when and how you came to boogie?

I start bodybording in 1989. I have always lived near the beach and when I got home from school, I went to the beach to play with my friends. One day, a friend showed up at the beach with a boogie boarding and I loved! Later,  I won a boogie boarding from my father. Was a Christmas Gift and I never stopped. I remember that the deck was leather and rubber side ... And the rubber hurt my legs…

Do you still living at vitoria in brazil? good waves at home thoses days?

Actually, I live 35km from the capital Vitória to side north. My home is in Jacaraípe - Serra. Five minutes from my home, there are great place with rocks and good barrels. It is a right wave the name “Baixas’. There are another place a littler far from my house, around 1:30min by car. The name of the place is “Regência”. There are a very good Barrels to the right and left. Or I can go walk 5 min and surf fat waves…

Can you describe your favorites waves in brazil?

Regência is one of my favorite wave here in Brazil! There are waves at the beach, the name “Point” and the waves at the river mouth, the name “Boca”. And the waves are really good for bodyboarding. There are barrels and good ramp for any maneuver. There are rights and lefts.

Are you enough paid by your sponsors to follow wwt?

There are 3 years that our Government has programs to assist athletes in action. The programs are: “Bolsa Atleta” (the Government offers help with costs for month) and “Compete” (the Government offer tickets to go to the contest). But you must have resulted to enter in this program.

I would like to say thank you to my Government for the opportunity to continue in the sport, representing the people of my State. Because these programs I have not stopped competing.

Can you describe us woman bodyboarding scene in brazil? 

are there a young generation with potential good girls?

We have many girls (old and new generation) with good technical and potential in Brazil. This is possible because we have a Regional, Nacional and World contests to promote the sport and exchange experiences with other athletes.

And also have other things that help in the development of sport, the bodyboarding schools. I have the Institute Maylla Venturin three years ago and besides forming a citizen, we are forming competitors too. We also have the support of the State Government in this project.

Do you think that it s  more difficult today to find a sponsor for young woman who want to engage fully on the tour?

Yes, is very difficult find a sponsor for a young to run all the Brazilian tour and the world tour too. To find some good sponsor is necessary to have good results. First of all you should invest in youself and get good results to be in the media to try to find some sponsor!!!

Technical question :), how many boards do you have in your quiver?

what kind of shape you like surfing?

Well, at home I have more than 25 boards. Some of this boards was important to me. I have more than 20 years competing… Some times I use my old boards. When I travel, I take two or three boards.

My current board is 38”and 38,5” and the brand is Genesis - MayllaVenturin.

Do you change the core depending the swell or water temperature when you travel?

Yes! But some times I like to much a board that I prefere do not change.

Tell us your best and your worst memory of your career up to now 

The best memories for me are friends, learn about other cultures, meet other countries, waves, be on the podium and my Institute! 

The worst memories are the long waits at airports, losing important moments with my family and friends from my hometown and difficulties to surf some waves, some bad moments in the watter…

What are your plans for this year?

Realize the dream of becoming world champion. ;D

Maylla many thanks! for the last question, you can say what you want :)

I would like to say thank you to SPIT97 for the space and for the interview.

Thank you to all my sponsors: Genesis Bodyboarding, The Government of my State, Trinta Pés Acessories, Shopping Jacaraípe, Wizard (English school), Sexy Machine (Clothing) and GymClub.

Never give up your dreams! when you least expect it, they will come true.

To believe is to have faith!

(Merci à toi et ravi d'apprendre que tu as plus de  25 planches à la maison, je me sens moins seul d'un coup (rire))

Sari Ohhara // 2014 hawaii sessions

Cette semaine j'ai échangé quelques message avec ma nouvelle pote japonaise Sari Ohhara, et elle m'a envoyée des photos de sa saison hawaïenne sur le north shore d'Oahu en ce début d'année; elle a fini d'ailleurs en demi finale lors de l'apb pipeline challenge en février dernier. (étape par ailleurs remportée par Lilly Pollard  qui s'est sérieusement blessée aux vertèbres à mystics dans le nsw ce mardi; on lui souhaite un bon rétablissement)

Sari a surfé quelques vagues cools comme on peut le voir sur les photos avec son énergie positive omniprésente; à son retour au japon elle a signé son pro modèle chez V bodyboards et reste pour le moment chez elle à Chiba pour s'entraîner et surfer.  Je l'avais interviewée il y a quelques temps ici: http://www.spit97.com/2013/07/sari-ohara-japan.html :

TEST / VIPERS VECTORS / USA

Aujourd'hui je propose une petit feedback sur le nouveau jouet de  viper fins  que j'ai reçu il y a quelques jours de californie: les Vectors

C'est donc leur nouveau modèle commercialisé et  pensé par Fred Simpson il y a plus de 6 mois, soit 23 ans après la création des vipers V5  que tous les bodyboarders qui se respectent ont vu ou essayé au moins une fois dans leur vie.

Les Vectors reprennent le shape classique des vipers donc, mais avec un caoutchouc  plus dense, plus léger et moins traumatisant pour les pieds.  

Au touché ce sont des ovnis; elles ne ressemblent en rien au caoutchouc que l'on a l'habitude de voir provenant des usines en Malaisie ou à Taiwan et c'est assez perturbant; cela ressemble vaguement à la matière de certaines palmes de plongée! La forme quand à elle est quasiment identique aux V5, même shape, même volume et mêmes dimensions à part la sangle à l'arrière qui est plus épaisse. L'inclinaison de la partie centrale sur le dessus est identique elle aussi; idem pour le diamètre du trou d'évacuation en dessous. Enfin pour l'assemblage des différentes parties de la palmes les traits visibles sont aux mêmes endroits, elles ont bien été faites sur leurs machines aux USA, pas de doute;  seul la matière change. 

Bref, j'ai réellement pu tester leur efficacité  un jour de gros (cf photo) sur un shorebreak où il fallait tracer à l'arrivée des séries. Les propriétés de la nouvelle matière (utilisée donc aussi selon leurs dires pour les palmes  de l'armée américaine, en voilà un argument qu'il fallait oser :)))  ne se sont pas faites attendre: 

Les Vectors de par leur caoutchouc ont l'avantage d'être très nerveuses et donc de propulser très fort, peut être plus encore que les V5; l'accélération était presque bluffante,  je me sentais  en sécurité avec ça dans les pieds ce jour là. Elles sont beaucoup plus légères que l'ancien modèle et c'est sans doute leur grande force; d'une part c 'est vraiment cool car ça permet de moins se fatiguer dans la durée et surtout  sur les vagues on ne sent rien, il est  donc très facile de sortir les palmes de l'eau dans la paroi pour les rotations par exemple; quant au contrôle dans les sections creuses elles facilitent vraiment la tâche car elles sont très fonctionnelles; ce qui était déjà assez le cas pour les V5

Le démarrage reste tout de même plus difficile qu'avec des fins type stealth ou churchill car ça tire  sur les mollets mais bon, c'est un peu la marque de fabrique de viper :) 

Elles tiennent bien au pied; par contre la sangle reste assez rigide car plus épaisse que les V5; elles flottent à peu près comme les autres palmes dites "flottantes" du marché;

Le lendemain j'ai ré essayé ma paire d'asymétriques ally pour sentir la différence et  j'avais l'impression de faire du sur place. 

L'absence de bande néoprène rend  la hauteur du chausson  plus importante ce qui est moins oppressant pour le pied; elles taillent donc un peu plus grandes que les V5.

On fonctionne aussi au coloris pour la dureté de la palme; les jaunes sont rigides, et les rouges plus souples; ils n'ont pas lésiné sur la couleur des jaunes par contre, elles font presque mal aux yeux;) 

Après quelques sessions les ailettes latérales sur le dessus semblent avoir tendance à plier légèrement en petites ondes; mais rien de grave à priori.

Un jour de petites vagues, j'ai testé les vectors souples, elles plient plus facilement lors du palmage, sont moins réactives mais très confortables, on ne sent presque rien; à utiliser l'été pieds nus. Pour les jaunes je les ai aussi utilisées sans chaussons, et le caoutchouc ne m'a jamais irrité le pied, seulement un frottement au niveau de la cheville, mais rien de remarquable ce qui fait un autre bon point pour viper.

Visiblement elles ne sont pas prêtes d'être distribuées en france; peut être veulent ils se concentrer sur le marché US pour le moment.

Bref test concluant en ce qui me concerne; les gars un peu trop asservis à la mode des asymétriques type makapuu  te diront que ces palmes sont moches parce que "ça fait pas comme winny quand on croise" (rire), un argument de plus pour me convaincre de ne surfer que ça les bons jours :)

Ci-dessous les photos de la session test (le swell de la dépression Christine); beaucoup de wipe out et peu de tricks, mais des fins diablement efficaces :)

viperfins.com

Credit photos: Erwan Crouan / Menswave / Steve Poulhazan

spencer skipper / 2014 pipe pro

Une vidéo familiale (postée par Trish Waters et éditée par A Botha :)) où l'on peut voir un résumé des  meilleures vagues de la légende Spencer Skipper lors du pipe pro la semaine dernière, vraiment fan :)

Adam Dumas // the wedge

Avant dernier article sur quelques riders de la scène DK aux usa;  A 30 ans, Adam Dumas  est un chargeur. Il apprécie depuis toujours les vagues puissantes avec des lanceurs si possible; originaire de huntington il a appris à surfer en regardant les locaux emblématiques du Wedge comme Alaya ou Crawford. Aujourd'hui il ride pour toobs et gagne à être un peu plus connu; il a chopé une belle parution dans le mag surge il y a quelques temps:

When and how did you come to bodyboard?

Ok, well it is a long story so I will try to make it short. I started off surfing when I was 7 or 8 years old on a surfboard. But I would always have a bodyboard at the beach when I was young more like a toy than a wave riding vehicle. I did not really get into bodyboarding seriously until I was introduced to the wedge at the age of 15. THIS was it. I was amazed at the size of the barrels at wedge and watching guys like jj ayala or robbie crawford pull into these waves drop knee was something I wanted to do. It was pure style and i WANTED IN. So I picked up a new Bz bodyboard and started bodyboarding pretty consistently. Took a long time to get my dk where it is now with lots of bumps in the road.

Where do you live in cali?

I live in the great air polluted san fernando valley. I grew up near the wedge but now I live an hour north closer to some other well known waves such as pt. mugu,  It is kind of shitty being an hours drive from most beaches unless I leave very early because of la traffic. It works out good cause now i only try to surf when its good. the rest of the time I try to stay home with my wife and daughter. new daughter, watch out in a few years for her drop knee debut I already am working on the stance for good style . haha

Which type of spots do you surfe most of the time?

I like the heavier spots, places with barrels, sand banks, and of course anywhere theres side waves. i mean come on I grew up riding side waves in my sleep practically.

Can you describe the dk scene today in cali?                                                                                     

The dk scene in california is strong but could be better. Dk wars is great and that has definitely raised the bar. Really awesome work chris taloa did to make dk wars available. Everyone should go and thank him for starting that. i have seen so many of those dk wars pics on facebook and let me just say it is awesome to see the happy faces and the top level riding whether it be video or pics its always raising the bar. I participated in a few early on but now I have a baby and time does not allow for a lot of surf. 

Here in france many bodyboarders has always  seen california  as certainly one of the best dk riders nation; do you think this is due to cali  waves which are sometimes really well configured for drop knee?

We have a lot of great waves here for drop knee. I hate nothing more than to watch a guy do spins on a two foot wave but could sit there and watch someone with stylish drop knee  pump down the line and finish it off with a a stylish lip bash at the end. We have had some of the best dk riders in the past and still do. Just need someone to start documenting it cause I have seen some amazing dk the past few years and participated in some all time sessions but never get video always pictures. 

Are you are part of dk wars?

I am not a part of DKwars but I fully support the movement.

Wich  template and core do you like  to surf? do you use different boards depending surfing conditions?

I ride for toobs bodyboards and they have been very good to me as far as making me what I like. My boards are Dk influenced but not rounded in the nose. For years I rode 43 “ boards. the past few years I have changed to 42.25 it made a difference in my riding and made the tight drops easier. I have also been adding some nose rocker to my boards as well again making the tighter drops and fitting in the pockets of round bowls better.                                                                        

For everyday surf with average to no shape standard california waves I use a dk inspired board with a flipped nose no channels and dual stringers. For moderately heavy to real heavy I like a board the same as above but add some channels and take out a stringer. I like my boards to be able to warp and bend a bit increasing my odds at making an exit out of a barrel. 

                                                                                                                                  

Travels to come?

Maybe some hawaii and mexico next year but with a new daughter at home now I am not rushing anywhere soon.

Thanks adam ;)

Wanted to say thank you to my sponsor toobs bodyboards, my family, my wife and daughter, and all the wave riders who share the same love I do for the ocean. you make the world a better place. 

Joshua Garner

L'australien Joshua Garner (the_axiom) lors de son dernier trip en indonésie à Java;  Ce montage posté il y a 15 jours et  plutôt cool a été réalisé par  Robert Sherwood (Tales of a Dream / sherwoodstudio.com.au ) 
Il décrit ci dessous sa vision de l'impact touristique sur le petit village javanais recèlant une gauche très 'bodyboard' que l'on voit beaucoup sur vimeo ces derniers temps:

The pristine beauty of Indonesia is fundamental to its appeal. The promise of perfect waves, thriving rainforests and simple living constitute an irresistible image for surfers the world over. But life on the archipelago is not static, and the impact of mass tourism is now tangible even in the remote villages of Java.

“Coming from Australia, I arrived in this small village in Indonesia and instantly became attracted to beauty of the island,” director, Robert Sherwood told us. “It was everything I hoped for, amazing waves, picturesque settings and the friendliest people I have met.”

“There was, however, a downside,” continued Sherwood. “While documenting the local happenings every morning I got a chance to see the village differently and became aware of the burning, pollution and scattered rubbish along the beach every morning. We spoke with Papa, a guru of the village, who told us of the local support for growth in buildings & tourists. I left knowing this small village could be just another ruined tourist haven within a few years time.”

Kuta and the Bukit Peninsula are swimming in plastic, a much lamented fact, but to witness environmental destruction in such an immaculate setting is yet more perturbing. 

“After a couple weeks chasing waves and vibes through Bali I thought it would be a good idea to venture a little deeper in pursuit of proper waves and proper culture,” says Joshua Garner, the featured rider. “I found that in Java. A slice of Paradise. Perfect waves, tribal living and some space for the mind. I basically surfed myself silly and filled my spare time drawing and mingling with the locals. I was a strange man in a strange land loving almost everything.

“There were however a handful of lessons to be learnt. The most significant lesson was the paradoxical way in which we continue to live and expand through. When you’re in paradise these contradictions illuminate themselves. And as I suck back another dart I witness the contradictions first hand. But the most upsetting part was the rubbish that filled the beaches and the smoke that filled the sky.”

As travelling surfers, we of course are part of the problem. Certainly it seems hypocritical to criticise tourism growth when we flock en masse to whatever spot is in vogue. Development is inevitable and inexorable, the key is recognising your role in the issue, and striving to improve the situation as opposed to exacerbating it. 

source: http://magicseaweed.com/news/paradise-paradox/5960/

Trevor Solberg // San Marcos / california

Après Bob Kithcart c'est au tour d'un autre californien de 24 ans, Trevor Solberg, de répondre aux mêmes questions.  Discret et passionné depuis quelques années par le DK grâce encore une fois à  Paul Roach entre autres,  il travaille comme manutentionnaire dans une entreprise de produits chimique et réside vers les terres entre San Diego et Oceanside.  Dans ses réponses, le ressenti d'une glisse qui s'estompe un peu; réservée à un noyau de puristes. Au milieu de l'itw il évoque son expérience intéressante avec le "Vektor fin System", qu'il perçoit comme le futur du Drop Knee:

When and how did you come to bodyboard?

From the age of so to sixteen, I grew up in Wisconsin, a place that has probably never heard of bodyboarding. Every summer, I would fly out to California to visit my dad. I would spend all of my time at the beach because we didn't have anything really like that where I was from. I couldn't stay out I the ocean. During those summers, I tried my hand at surfing because that's what everyone in California seemed to do. I never really cared for it but still had fun. In 2006, I decided to move out to California. I immediately started bodyboarding, and instantly got wrapped up in the bodyboard world. About a year later, I started to drop knee and now am hooked. 

Where do you live in cali?

I currently live in San Marcos, California

Which type of spots do you surfe most of the time?

find myself at beach breaks or small reefs. Most breaks near me are beach breaks, which is why I surf them mostly. I like beach breaks because they have a lot of power which I feel is one of the key components to drop knee. The reefs around here can also be very good. They usually have much better shape than our beach breaks but don't always have the same power.  

Can you describe the dk scene today in cali?

The drop knee scene in California has definitely changed. When I first got into drop knee, California had Roach and the best in the west contest and you would run into other dk guys all over. Today it seems like drop knee has started falling off the map in California. I hardly see other drop knee guys in the water. The contests have slowed down. Everything drop knee seems to be on the back burner of the bodyboarding world. It nice seeing the little glimmers of hope for drop knee like dropknee magazine and dk wars.

Here in france many bodyboarders has always  seen california  as certainly one of the best dk riders nation; do you think this is due to cali  waves which are sometimes really well configured for drop knee?

The waves her can definitely draw people. I met two really good friend from Italy here in California because the waves drew them here. The waves in California can definitely get really good, however, we get our flat spells. The past few years have certainly seen their share I flat spells. Weeks on end with nothing over knee high doesn't provide much opportunity. At the same time, we can have runs for weeks where it's perfect. Mix in the variety of waves California has to offer from mutants like the wedge to perfect beach breaks and fun reefs to reeling point breaks. California has a lot to offer travelers if they are lucky enough to come during a swell. Because of the variety, it has a lot to offer dropknee. You can have powerful, steep, punchy shore break or a long reeling waves that allows you to throw a dozen snaps. It really depends on the swell and the conditions. Because it's always changing, it forces you to adapt to the waves which is why I think a lot of the guys around here could do really well on the world tour. California has the potential to produce world class riders and because of that, a lot of people are drawn to the waves around here.

Are you are part of dk wars?

I have had the pleasure of competing in DK wars. I competed in the second DK wars at salt creek, traveled to Hawaii for the third at off the wall, and competed in Buds DK wars salt creek. I think what Taloa started for drop knee is amazing. It's great seeing a bunch of guys out in the water all DK. It's always a great vibe with everyone cheering for each other and everyone pushing themselves and the sport. It's definitely helping to breathe life back into drop knee. Hopefully with the continued success of DK wars more events an support will flow into the dropknee community and allow guys to go further with what they love to do and prevent dropknee from becoming something of the past.

Wich  template and core do you like  to surf? do you use different boards depending surfing conditions?

I have ridden a lot of boards in the few years I have been dropkneeing. I've ridden the Nomad Lackey, Turbo Rose, Elemenohpee Bud, Cartel Roach, Cartel Machete, and others. There were certain aspects from each board that I liked and didn't like. From all I the experimenting with the different boards, I mixed the aspects that I liked and created my own shape. I currently ride a custom mixture of the Cartel Machete, Turbo Rose and Nomad Lackey with a Polypro core. I recently was picked up by Vektor and have began riding my boards with the Vektor fin system. The system is next level. That is undoubtably the future of drop knee. I was hesitant about trying the fins at first, but the control and speed provided by having the fin system is mind blowing. If stuck more, gnarlier floaters and air in the past few months than I have the entire time I've know how to dropknee. I've been able to confidently charge steeper waves because I know the fins will keep me securely in place. Vektor is definitely something everyone serious about taking their riding to the next level should consider from here on out. I do have different boards for different waves. I have junk board for those gnarly shorebreak days when I know something will probably break. I have a 44" triad bud model for the smaller days when I need more foam. I have a customer made for bigger days but also works for faster waves and lastly I have a board for more normal days.

Travels to come?

I have a lot of travel plans. I plan on doing a lot of traveling to central and Northern California this winter to paddle out with friends in the big winter swells they get up there. I'm planning a tip to Hawaii next February for a few weeks and also a trip to Mexico next summer. I'm working on planning a few trips in the years to come. I shooting for the pacific islands like Fiji or Bali and also to Australia. 

Thanks Trevor!